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Showing posts from June, 2015

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: Back vent with mittered corners – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: a racha atrás com cantos em esquadria

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EN Summary: How I usually sew a skirt’s back vent with mitered corners 
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PT Sumário: A forma como costumo costurar uma racha com cantos em esquadria atrás numa saia 

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: Sewing in the facings – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: aplicação das vistas

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EN Summary: In this article I explain how I sewed the facings of the dress (both armhole and neckline facings) linking up to a tutorial on finishing facing with an invisible zipper
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PT Sumário: Neste artigo explico como se aplicam as vistas das cavas e do decote, e forneço o link para um passo-a-passo de como fazer o acabamento da vista juntamente com o fecho invisível.

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: The invisible zipper – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: o fecho invisível

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EN Summary: I’ve been way from blogging because my son had chickenpox and only resumed sewing the dress this weekend. So far I have sewn the CB invisible zipper, shoulder seams and side seams, which allows me to check the fit of the dress one last time. In today’s article I address the method used to sew the invisible zipper and a few considerations about the process in general. 
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PT Sumário: Estive afastada dos blogs e da costura porque o meu filho teve Varicela, mas hoje retomei os trabalhos e consegui coser o fecho invisível na costura do meio das costas, as costuras dos ombros e as laterais, o que me permite verificar como assenta o vestido uma última vez. No artigo de hoje explico o método que usei para coser o fecho invisível, assim como algumas considerações genéricas sobre o processo.

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: assembling the front and the back – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: construção da frente e das costas

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EN Summary: In this article I share the construction notes as far as assembling the front and the back halves (minus CB seam and invisible zipper).
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PT Sumário: Neste artigo partilho as notas de construção até concluir a assemblagem da frente e das duas metades das costas (a costura central ainda não está fechada nem o fecho aplicado).

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: Cutting, thread tracing and interfacing – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: o corte, marcaçóes e reforços

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Summary: In this article I share some notes on how I drafted the skirt, the neck and armhole facings; I also talk about the preparation before starting to sew (thread tracing, interfacing).
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Sumário: Neste artigo partilho algumas considerações sobre o traçado da saia e das vistas do vestido; também falo de todo o processo preparatório antes de começar a coser (marcação com alinhavos, entretelas).

Self-made and worn this week #3 – Roupa feita por mim que usei esta semana #3

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EN Summary: Another week has gone and once again there are two self-made garments that I’ve worn during the week, both made from BurdaStyle magazine patterns. Click on the link below to find out all the details! 
--- PT Sumário: Uma semana mais que passou e de novo duas peças feitas por mim usadas durante a semana, ambas feitas a partir de moldes da revista BurdaStyle. Cliquem no link abaixo para descobrir mais!

Sewing notions and supplies for fine sewing: a gift from overseas – Materiais para costura ao mais alto nível, uma oferta que veio do estrangeiro

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EN: Today I had the unexpected pleasure of receiving a package from a sewing friend (who wishes to remain anonymous) and to whom I am most grateful; the package contains a set of sewing notions and supplies. As many of these materials are completely new to me (and I’ve been sewing for a long time) I figured that perhaps they are also new to many of us in the sewing community, so I asked permission to share and explain the usage of these notions. Using the best materials makes all the difference if you what to go beyond your sewing skills and I must say these came just in time for something really glorious that I’ve been planning to do for quite some time (I’m not sharing the full disclosure for now, just be patient,…). I'm reviewing each notion so you can learn about it and how it's used:
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PT: Hoje tive um prazer inesperado ao receber uma encomenda de uma amiga cujo conhecimento adveio do mundo da costura e à qual desde já expresso o meu profundo agradecimento. Esta amiga pr…

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: Bodice final muslin and fine tuning – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: Modelo de prova final da blusa e ajustes finos

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Summary: After drafting the front bodice from scratch (click here) I had to run one final test before cutting into the fashion fabric. I’m sharing photos of the final muslin and how I fine-tuned the bodice pattern. 
--- Sumário: Depois de desenhar o molde de raiz (clicar aqui) tive que comprovar mais uma vez que assenta bem antes de cortar no tecido definitivo. Neste post mostro fotos do modelo de prova e dos ajustes que se refletiram no molde da parte de cima do vestido

Self-made and worn this week #2 – Roupa feita por mim que usei esta semana #2

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EN:Summary: This week I have two great self-made garments that I wore and shared on my personal style blog: a pleated midi skirt (BurdaStyle pattern) and a jumpsuit (Patrones Magazine pattern)! Click bellow to view full content and check them out!
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PT:Sumário: Esta semana usei duas peças confecionadas por mim, as quais partilhei no meu blogue de estilo pessoal: uma saia midi pregueada (molde da revista BurdaStyle) e um macacão (molde da revista Patrones). Cliquem mais abaixo para ver todo o conteúdo do post!

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: Drafting the bodice pattern – Vestido com ombro pregueado assimétrico: Traçado do molde definitivo da blusa

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Summary: Method for drafting the bodice of the dress
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Sumário: Método para traçar a parte da frente da blusa do vestido

Dress with asymmetric shoulder pleats: learning from the best teacher - Vestido com pregueado assimétrico num ombro: aprendendo com quem realmente sabe

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EN: In my previous article (click here) I have determined that the Patrones pattern wasn’t going to work for me and I stated the intention of trying to draft the pattern myself, starting from my basic bodice block which I have fitted to my personal measurements (click here). Paco of BCN Unique patterns offered to help and coming from someone with years of experience in custom dressmaking and pattern drafting, his assessment is quite valuable. In his opinion (and I totally agree) there are a couple of issues that could be improved: 
1 –The Patrones pattern was designed creating the pleats on one shoulder towards the waist (it’s a design feature): it would be more flattering if the pleats crossed the entire front diagonally, instead of just one side. 
2 – On the Patrones dress, the outer pleat falls away from the natural shoulder line into the dropped shoulder; instead both pleats should be located on the natural shoulder and not far into the dropped shoulder line. The neckline, as conseq…

Patrones Magazine #349 mod22: bodice muslin analisys – Revista Patrones #349 mod22: análise do modelo de prova do vestido (parte superior)

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Check the previous article about constructing the muslin and comparing its pattern to the basic bodice block (click here). I forgot to say on my previous article that I went one size bigger for this dress, after measuring the pattern across the waist and chest (instead of my usual 42 I cut the 44); I have no idea how this would impact the skirt of the dress though. 

The front it doesn’t look so bad at a first glance, but we can see that the CF line is not vertical by observing the basted line (I think that’s because there’s extra room on the draped side,… The fact that there is no darts on the plain side also is a factor in my opinion). The front also rides up slightly, which is more evident when we look at the side views: 


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Podem consultar o artigo prévio onde comparei o molde Patrones com o meu bloco básico da blusa (clicar aqui). Esqueci-me de mencionar no artigo anterior que depois de medir o molde da patrones resolvi traçar o tamanho acima do meu habitual (que seria o 42); este…

Patrones Magazine #349 mod 22 WIP: The original pattern bodice muslin – Revista Patrones #349 mod22: o modelo de prova do corpo do vestido

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In this previous post I’ve shown you guys my efforts to produce a bodice basic block so I’d be able to proof this dress from Patrones magazine; today I want to show you the comparison between the basic block and the magazine pattern, and the early stages of the construction of a muslin for the Patrones original pattern. After tracing the original pattern I added seam allowances with the help of a double tracing wheel. I have some white cotton pique in my stash and I thought I could use it, because it has a similar weight and drape as the fashion fabric which I intend to use for the dress.
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Neste artigo da semana passada falei-vos dos meus esforços para produzir um bloco básico da blusa, para efeitos de comparação e retificação deste vestido da revista Patrones; hoje vou partilhar convosco a comparação entre os dois moldes (o bloco básico e o molde da revista), e os passos iniciais para produzir um modelo de prova do molde da revista. Depois de traçar o molde da parte de cima do ve…

Self-made and worn this week round-up– Roupa feita por mim que usei nesta semana

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Welcome to a new category here on the blog, the “self-made and worn this week”! I don’t know if you guys know that I also write a personal style blog, Tany et La Mode… Even if you aren’t at all interested in my personal style, I thought it would be nice to show my self-made garments as I wear them in real life linking back to their original reviews and the blogposts on my personal style blog. This week (and I mean working days only) I wore two garments that I’ve sewn:
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Bem-vindos a uma nova categoria aqui no blogue, chamada “Roupa feita por mim que usei nesta semana”! Não sei se sabem, mas tenho um blogue de estilo pessoal, o Tany et La Mode; mesmo que não estejam interessados no meu estilo pessoal, achei que poderiam estar interessados em ver-me a usar as roupas que faço no dia-a-dia, deixando links para os respetivos artigos de costura e fotos no outro blogue. Esta semana (apenas até hoje), usei duas peças feitas por mim:
Worn on the 1st of June, this dress was made from BurdaStyl…

Drafting the basic bodice block to assist on proofing and/or redrafting a pattern – Traçado do molde básico da blusa para verificar/corrigir um molde final

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A couple of weeks ago I was gifted a very nice piece of fabric (printed pique), out of which I really wanted to make something special. While browsing through a pile of pattern magazines looking for inspiration, I saw this dress (Patrones magazine #389 mod22) and I really liked the dropped shoulder effect on the sleeves and the pleats on one shoulder… I was intrigued by the fact of it not having darts on the upper body though, and I wondered if this exact design would work with my fabric (which has more body than the Patrones preferred fabric for this pattern). I’ve been willing to acquire some pattern drafting skills for a while so this gave me the perfect excuse. I am a confessed book hoarder when it comes to sewing/patternmaking books and I had to decide on which book to use as a reference, since there are many ways of drafting the basic block (I wish I could try them all and make a comparison chart,… Maybe I will, but first I want to make this dress happen), and most of them make …

The flower print Cassock coat Sewing Review (part 2) – O casaco Cassock florido: a confeção (parte 2)

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(Click here for part 1 of this sewing review) 
After stitching together all parts of the body of the coat, it’s time to tackle the collar; the pattern features different pieces for under collar and upper collar and the turn of the cloth is accounted for on the upper collar, but since ultimately it depends on the fabric used, it’s advisable to double check it. First I stitched and pressed the central seam of the under collar. The neckline on both the coat’s body and facings should be stay-stitched, and the SAs clipped, it will make the job of stitching the collar to these seams much easier. Then I stitched the under collar to the coat’s body and the upper collar to the facings, making sure the stitching line begins and ends exactly at the collar placement notches; finally I pressed the seams open. With right sides facing together, it’s easy to pin the neckline seam on both facings and coat so it overlaps exactly and then test the turn of the cloth. 
Next step is stitching around the coll…